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"Masterpieces of Ecclesiastical Embroidery of Ukraine" ( XII - XX centuries )
By Tetiana Kara-Vasylieva. A book published by the Information Publishing Center of the Ukrainian Orthodox Church. Kyiv, Ukraine, 2000
  

 

This book introduces one of the most interesting areas of Ukrainian culture - ecclesiastical embroidery. Samples found in museums in Kyiv, Chernihiv, Poltava, and Lviv in a wide chronological range - XII -XX century are presented in the book. The study starts with a masterpiece from the XIII century - the Mother of God Oranta - embroidered in gold, and ends with a shroud of Christ done by O.Prahova on the eve of the XX century following V. Vasnetsov's drawing for the St.Vladimir Cathedral in Kyiv.

The book shows the unity of gold embroidery samplers with the Liturgy, and inner decoration of the church. It presents the symbolism of ecclesiastical ceremonies and the actions of clergymen. It touches upon the Biblical themes in the embroideries and narrates how these sophisticated ecclesiastical postulares are depicted on and presented in liturgical instruments - for example, protective veils of the Virgin, patens, shrouds of Christ, and various vestments used by deacons and patriachs.

Cover of the book
(Click on images to enlarge them)

The wide panorama of liturgical embroidery genesis in Ukraine begins with a sample from the XII century - a portrayal of the Mother of God Oranta, which became a summit of decorative art in the Kyiv school. Illustrations include the unique medieval works of art, among them the Shroud of Christ of Zhyrovka village ( XV century ), and the Chasuble from Zolochiv village (XVI century ).They represent the evolution of ecclesiastic art, showing the continuation of Byzantine traditions and links with the art of Greece, Moldavia, the Balkan countries, and in a broad context with that of entire Orthodox world.

The XVII and XVIII centuries are marked by a rapid evolution of liturgical embroidery. During that time, it became a distinctive phenomenon of Ukrainian culture, and acquired some clear features of national originality. Outstanding masterpieces that belong to this art form demonstrate high artistic achievements, as well as attest continuing progress of the Ukrainian art from origins to maturity.

Evolution of gold embroidery in Ukraine was closely connected with convents that were prominent centers of culture and education. Among the founders of the monasteries were prosperous Cossacks leaders and hetmans who donated considerably for their maintenance. Ecclesiastical embroideries done in gold, silver, multi-colored silk, and velvet were used as various instruments during the liturgy.

Crusifixion, 1728

On the eve of the XVIII century, the Kyiv monastery of Ascension, headed by Mother-Superior Maria Magdalene Mazepa and her relatives, became a leading center of embroidery. The book shows a number of unique items that the members of Mazepa family commissioned and presented to different people who donated to the Convent. During 1720s-1730s in the late Baroque period, a leading role in shaping new styles passed to the Chernihiv monastery of Good Friday headed by Mother-Superior Photyna, and from the 1740s-1750s to the Kyivo-Phlorivskiy Convent headed by Mother Olena.

Archives of the monasteries, as well as their correspondence with the prominent theologians of that time attest that both these women were highly educated. Their sophistication and range of interests gave a new content to the embroideries, manifesting the obvious link with spiritual life of that time. Their high-quality works later became prototypes and were canonized and copied by many others.

The album presents works of other needlewomen - Nektaria and Piora, whose samples were discovered in museums of Ukraine. The most important aspect of the book is that the author for the first time was able to establish the authorship of those artifacts, which being considered a part of Medieval art, traditionally were regarded anonymous. The reader for the first time is presented with the names of icon-painters who designed the drawings for embroidery, and the names of artisans who actually created them.

Monasteries had close connections with leading icon-painting work-shops and first of all with the workshops of the Kyiv Cave Lavra, which is known for well-organized system of painting and technical education, embroidery and icon-painting. The best known schools were also in the Nizhynskiy, Ladynskiy, Lebedynskiy, and the Kyiv-Phlorivskiy convents.

The panorama of Ukrainian embroidery given in the book from XII to XX century enables us to trace the evolution of different styles of embroidery beginning with post-Byzantine influences to Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo, and Art Nouveau. No doubt, the most prominent works were created under the influence of indigenous Ukrainian variant of the Baroque.

Baroque innovations touched the deepest structures of Ukrainian culture and found their original interpretation both in folk and professional art. These two European styles - Baroque and art Nouveau - had acquired in Ukraine its national tinge, having become brightest examples of Ukrainian artistic life.

Shroud of Christ, 1896. Fragments
By Olena Prakhova

 
 

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