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By T.C. Mitchell, Anchorage Daily News
Anchorage, Alaska, December 31, 2003
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PALMER, Alaska........Putting a lighted candle in a window is one
of the many traditions the Tokar family observes during their Ukrainian
Christmas. The candle welcomes "strangers or lost souls" who might
pass by during the night of the Holy Supper.
Those who enter for a warm meal should greet their benefactors
with "Khrystos Rodyvsya." If that doesn't roll off the tongue,
try "Christ is born."
The family will respond with "Slavim Yoho," or "Let us glorify him."
A single candle, a brief exchange, a meal of simple foods exemplify
the quiet Christmas Eve celebrated Jan. 6 in the Orthodox community.
"It's a very solemn dinner. It's a very solemn time," said Gloria
Tokar, who is the matriarch of a small Ukrainian family that moved to
the Valley three years ago after spending nearly 40 years in
Anchorage.
"It's more family-oriented," said Jerry Tokar, the patriarch of the
three-generation clan. "There are certain procedures you go through
to rejoice as a family."
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The Tokars of Palmer celebrate Christmas on the Julian calendar with a meal called the Holy Supper, which includes nuts, sweets, pickled herring, kutya, assorted dried fruits, borscht, dill potatoes, pickled beets, bread (the symbol of the Trinity) and fish (not shown)
Photo by Bob Hallinen / Anchorage Daily News
(Click on images to enlarge them)
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The doctrines of their religion can be difficult to follow, both
said, because the Ukrainian community is tiny, and foodstuffs for the
Holy Supper, for example, are hard to come by.
That wasn't the case when the two were high school sweethearts in
Chicago, where their culture thrived in large neighborhoods.
"It was easier to hold on to the traditional customs there," said
Jerry, who was born in Sumy, Ukraine, in 1939 and survived, with his
mother, Stalin's forced labor camps -- the "Gulag Archipelago" --
that claimed the lives of millions.
"In Chicago there were large congregations. You had like religious
beliefs; you shared a community."
Out Palmer way, the Ukrainian community that meets every Sunday in
the small, older Sacred Heart church on Bogard Road consists of 30 to
50 congregants, or "about 15 to 18 families," Jerry said. Included in
that "Byzantine outreach" are the Tokars' four daughters and their
growing families.
Gloria said she has coloring books for her grandchildren that relate
to the Tokars' deep belief in their religion and its roots.
"It's harder and harder with all the changes," she said, referring
to "the modernization" of today's working world that can inflict
distance between generations.
"We just call them and tell them, 'After work, you're coming over for
this dinner,' " Gloria said as she gently pressed her hand over one
of the linen heirlooms from the old country.
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Photo by Bob
Hallinen / Anchorage Daily News
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One of the linens she displayed is an embroidered tablecloth rich in
colors and designs that convey the intricate craftsmanship common
among Ukrainians.
Tablecloths have an important role in the Holy Supper. Tradition has
it that two tablecloths are needed: One for the ancestors of the
family, the second for the living members. And, as in the Tokar home,
a little hay is placed under the tablecloths as a reminder that
Christ was born in a manger.
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Another tradition calls for an extra place-setting for the deceased
family members, whose souls, according to belief, come on Christmas
Eve and partake of the food. This year, the Tokars must set a place
for a daughter's deceased mother-in-law.
The centerpiece, the kolach, on the table is always the same: one
long candle through three rings of bread that symbolize the Trinity;
the ring shape alludes to eternity.
Traditionally there are 12 courses in the Holy Supper, dedicated to
each of Christ's apostles. The courses are meatless because there is
a 40-day fast prior to Christmas Day.
Wheat is an important part of the Ukrainian fete. It represents the
ancestors of the family, and it's believed their spirits reside in it
during the holidays. With that in mind, a didukh -- a sheaf of wheat
stalks -- is placed under the icons in the house. With that
accomplished, as tradition has it, the head of the household begins
the meal by placing a bowl of kutya at the table.
Gloria Tokar's version of kutya begins with sorting through the wheat
and washing it under running water, then soaking it in warm water
overnight. Salt lightly. In the same water, bring wheat to a boil,
then cover and simmer until tender -- 2 to 6 hours.
While the wheat simmers, boil 1/2 cup of poppy seeds and then drain
them. Cover the poppy seeds in lukewarm water and soak for about 30
minutes. Drain well and grind finely.
Now boil 1 part of honey to 2 parts of water to make a syrup. Cool
and combine with wheat to make a medium thin mixture. Stir in the
ground poppy seeds.
Serve in a sherbet glass or fruit dish and garnish with chopped nuts.
To properly end the 40-day fast, each member of the family must
partake of the kutya.
Gloria said the Holy Supper traditionally includes pickled mushrooms,
beets and herring. The Tokars, though, usually save one salmon from
the summer fishing trips to serve for this meal. Cookies and fruit
compote with chopped nuts are served as dessert.
But the highlight of the meal, at least for the Tokars, is Gloria's
famous borscht with potatoes.
"She makes very good borscht," said Jerry. "No matter how big a pot
she makes, there's never enough."
Gloria says her borscht expertise comes from many sources, including
her now-deceased mother-in-law, recipes from the old country and
conversations with women aboard the giant Russian oil skimmer
Vydaghubsky that arrived here to help during the Exxon Valdez spill.
Jerry, an interpreter of several languages, was on board to help with
communications.
Borscht With Potatoes
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The ingredients may vary according to individual taste, Gloria says.
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. 2 medium beets cut into thin strips
. 1 medium carrot cut into thin strips
. 3 to 4 cups water
. 3 cups vegetable stock
. 1 medium potato, diced
. 2 medium potatoes, quarteredv
. 1/2 cup sour cream
. 1 small onion, chopped
. 2 tablespoons vegetable shortening
. 1/2 tomatoes
. 1 cup shredded cabbage
. salt and pepper
. 1/2 teaspoon sugar
. chopped dill
» Cover the beets and carrot with water and vegetable stock. Cook
until partially done. Add potatoes and continue cooking. When
potatoes are tender, remove them and mash. Combine mashed potatoes
with sour cream and set aside.
» Cook the onion in butter until clear. Add the tomatoes and simmer
for a few minutes. Add the cabbage and cook until tender. Add this
mixture to the borscht.
» Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the sugar. Simmer to
blend the flavors a few minutes. Add the potato mixture and chopped
dill.
UKRAINIAN CHRISTMAS MENU
Anchorage Daily News
Anchorage, Alaska, Dec 31, 2003
On Christmas Eve, to commemorate Christ's birth, a ritual meal is prepared
with 12 meatless dishes representing the 12 apostles. The menus differ among
the regions of Ukraine, but this is a sample:
1. Kutya: A porridge of wheat, poppy seeds, honey and nuts.
2. Borscht: A soup of beets, potatoes, carrots, onions, cabbage and
tomatoes.
3. Baked/fried fish: Any variety of fish baked or fried, but if fried,
only vegetable/olive/hemp oil are used in keeping with the meatless nature
of the meal.
4. Oseledsi: Pickled fish.
5. Holubtsi: Cabbage rolls filled with grain.
6 and 7. Varenyky: Pirogies (pastry turnovers) filled with potato and
sauerkraut.
8. Cooked beans
9. Kapusta: Cabbage and peas.
10. Beets with mushrooms
11. Fruit compote
12. Pampushky: Deep-fried dumplings filled with poppy seeds, apricots or
prunes.
-- from www.radioua.com
http://www.adn.com/life/story/4568511p-4540734c.html
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